How to Use Proportion to Flatter Your Figure

We have all the ingredients in our style, now we need to look at the quantity we use of each ingredient in our outfit. Proportion is like the measuring cup for our recipe. Just like baking a cake, proportion is also very important in our style.   

What is the golden mean?

​In mathematics, art and architecture, there is a very specific fraction or ratio called the golden ratio. In fashion it is sometimes called the divine proportion. Merriam-Webster defines it as: a ratio of two numbers in which the ratio of the sum to the larger number is the same as the ratio of the larger number to the smaller. You may also hear it called the golden section or the rule of thirds. It’s closest to a ⅓ or a ⅔ ratio. This ratio is said to be most pleasing and easy on the eye. It often occurs in nature.

How does the golden ratio apply to my body? 

You can find this ratio expressed in your body and between your facial features. The length of your body is divided by your waist. From the top of your head to your waist is about half the distance of your waist to your toes. Try it out with this nifty online golden ratio calculator. Type in your height into the box labeled “whole”, it will give you the approximate measurement of the top of your head to your waist and from your waist to the floor. Using these measurements will give you the ideal rise for your figure.

Example

For example, if you’re 5’6” (or 66”), the smaller of the two calculated numbers is about 25 and is the measurement from the top of your head to your optimal pant waist. For me, this just happens to hit at my natural waist. I’m always on the lookout for pants that hit as the natural waist, with the past trends of low rise pants, this has been kind of challenging for me. However, this trend is changing and I’m excited to see some more options in the clothing industry with a variety of rises. Because just as every body is different, every rise of pant does not suit every body.

Using our example of our 5’6” person, from the top of the head to the waist is about 25”. What’s about 25” down from the waist?…
​You guessed it… the knee. This is another place to note, knee length shorts and skirts are a good proportion. Now put 25” (or your measurement) in the calculator and you come up with a calculation of around 15.5” this is another good length for shorts and skirt. You can also apply this principle to the whole length of your lower half for some other optimal pant, capri and skirt lengths. 

Rule of Thirds

Your body is ⅓ torso, ⅔ lower body. That’s why this is often referred to as the rule of thirds. If all the measurements and calculations are too much, just remember to dress in thirds instead of in halves. Using the same proportion, we can determine the optimal length or proportion for anything. We can also apply it to the other ingredients in our style recipe to create a pleasing balance. Let’s say you have a “loud” top, a top with very dominant qualities. By this I mean something with a large print or a bold color. Use it in a ⅓ proportion on the body and balance it with ⅔ of something quieter. This will be balanced, but still bring focus to the portion with the dominant features.  

How can I implement good proportions without having to do math?

The lines on the frame make good places for hems– skirt hems, pant hems, sleeve hems, shirt hems etc. This is why the length of your clothing is so important. If something isn’t the right length for you, pull out the trusty sewing machine and get to work. Some dry cleaners will do simple tailoring tasks like hems. If not, find a local tailor, they should be able to hem things for you in a jiffy.

Follow the proportion section of style recipe on Pinterest. It has some great examples and visual references.

Thanks for sticking with me through our style recipe, next we’re going to look at how to tailor our style recipe perfectly for each individual body shape. I hope you’re able to see the big picture now and how everything works together.